Sunday, April 25, 2010

Nearing the end...

Exactly two weeks from today I will be on a plane heading back to the United States of America.

The past month or so has been a whirlwind of trying to fit in everything that we possibly can in Windhoek and the surrounding areas, a short travel seminar on sustainability and community based natural resource management in the southern part of the country, and hitting up every type of restaurant possible! There have been a few really amazing moments in the past month, and I think I'll focus on those for this post. They may be out of order chronologically and not the most sensical, but bear with me.

Last week, a few of us CGEers went to Parliament Gardens to do some reading, which really just turned in to us talking about random stuff. So, we're laying in the grass talking, when all of a sudden this guy walks up to us carrying a guitar. Now, in Namibia, a lot a lot of people ask you for money during your everyday lives, so my immediate thought was that this guy was going to ask us for some money. He comes over to us and starts talking about the word of God and all of these amazing religious words, and then asks if he can play a song for us. He proceeds to play us two beautiful songs. He had this amazing voice, and because he had no teeth, a very interesting way of speaking and singing. He then talks to us for a little bit longer and heads off, smiling as he walks away. After this interaction, we continue talking when all of a sudden this guy comes up to us wearing an awesome red sweatshirt suit, and asks us if we are going to the tai chi class on the grounds. Another fun fact was that he was our speaker the week before! We weren't planning originally on going to the tai chi class (because we had no idea that it even existed!), but we decided to join in! I have never done tai chi before, but it was so much fun. It is all about centering yourself, balance, and protection, and I loved every minute of it! Following the class, we walked up the hill about to walk to dinner, when the same man asked us where we were headed. We were going to Primi's for dinner, a place that is basically Italian mall food. He offered us a ride, and when we got in the car told us that in no way was he allowing us to eat at Primi, and that he was taking is to an authentic African restaurant. He took us to this place called La Marmite, a delicious deliciou Cameroonian restaurant. The food was amazing, there was beautiful art on the walls, and it was the perfect dinner! It was an awesome time.

Another awesome thing that we have done for the past couple of weeks was go to the Franco Namibian Cultural Center in town, where on Wednesday nights they show movies on a big screen. We have watched two really interesting movies, the last one about baby elephants in the Namib Desert.

The last thing that I'll talk about here is our now frequent trips to this restaurant called Paul's in the Craft Market in town. Paul's is a DELICIOUS restaurant with a great artistic atmosphere that hires disabled people from around Windhoek to cook food and serve food there. In a country like Namibia, where the unemployment rate hovers around fifty percent, it is incredibly difficult for the average young person to find a job, let alone anybody with a disability. However, Paul's seeks out disabled people to work there, which I think is an awesome message. Not only was the service great, but the food was delicious and relatively inexpensive. It is now one of our favorite places to go, and we are all really sad that we've only just found it.

We are leaving Namibia in less than a week now, and I am getting really nervous about what it's going to be like when I get home. I can image in the culture shock is going to be insane, and I don't know how much people are going to want to hear about my semester. And if people are interested, I don't even know how I would describe the semester. I think we're all preparing short, 2 minute speeches about our program, but there's no way I could possibly convey the time that I've had here.

BAH. I guess that's all. I may or may not write another blog entry. We head to Cape Town next Saturday for a week, our final travel seminar of the semester, and from Cape Town leave for Dulles in D.C. We're all planning trips to our favorite restaurants and locations. I'm going to miss Namibia so much. I know that people always say your semester abroad flies by, but I never really thought it would go by this quickly!

Ta ta for now.

Sunday, March 28, 2010

Spring break on the coast...

So, I have returned from spring break in Swakopmund, Namibia. If you've been reading my blog thus far, you shall see that I have been to Swakopmund one other time, earlier in the semester. Me and two other girls returned to the coast for break this week, and couldn't be happier that we did! Basically, it was a week of relaxation, which was sorely needed by the end of our trip to the north.

To get to Swakopmund without Passat (tear), we took Town Hoppers Shuttle Service, which is basically a fourteen passenger van, tightly packed with tourists to the coast. Although we didn't have much space, we had some really awesome talking time, to the discomfort of many of our fellow passengers. We arrived in Swakopmund later that night, and settled in to our living space, the Municipal Bungalows. It was AWESOME. Basically, they have lots of A-frame bungalows, but we were actually in our own little house! We had two bedrooms for the three of us, a little kitchen with a nook, a toilet and a bathroom. It was SO nice after doing lots of camping and staying in bungalows in Etosha where we had separate bathrooms and toilets from our sleeping area. Throughout the week, we ate out at a bunch of different restaurants (DELICIOUS coast food), bought way too many gifts for all of you at home, and basically spent way too much money. But it was a BLAST.

One of the best things that we did during the week was volunteer at an organization called Mondesa Youth Opportunities (MYO). I think I talked about it in my last post about Swakop, but I'll write about it again. During apartheid, Mondesa was one of the townships where they forcibly moved all of the blacks from the area, moving them out of town and in to substandard housing, all together. Today, Mondesa continues to be dominated by the black community of Swakopmund, while the residential areas closer to town and in town itself are predominantly white. While things are getting a little better, things like housing and the education system in Namibia in general is still pretty poor. MYO is an organization that brings students from the government schools to an afterschool program where they take more classes to better prepare them for the world after secondary school, whether it be a university or a job. Now, I definitely have some issues with a program that only takes what they deem to be the most "promising" of the students from the government schools, but our tour guide gave us her reasons for that requirement. MYO has a very limited budget, mainly based on individual donations, and they don't necessarily have the funds to deal with students who need more help. It is an interesting issue, but a place that is definitely doing good for a lot of the students from the government schools in Mondesa. We volunteered there for a couple of days during the week. They had just received a PeaceCorps volunteer for two years, and they had us helping out a bit. I got to play volleyball for two hours with the sports class! It was so much fun. One of the other girls worked in the library, reorganizing some of their books, and another sat in on the dance and music class to get some information for her internship. It was a lot of fun, just hanging out with the kids on our break.

One of the best moments that I had there happened before we even got started. We got out of the taxi in the middle of Mondesa, and had no idea where we were going. We started out walking in one direction, past towards homes and schools, and could not find MYO. However, we did find a secondary school, so the two other girls went inside to ask where we could find the program, because it is connected to schools. I was standing outside talking to a few kids, when out walks Holland and Nathalie (the two other girls with me from CGE) and a huge group of kids, walking to MYO now that school was out! They offered to walk us to the program. It was awesome, just to talk to them about what they loved about school, what their favorite subjects were, and much more about education from their point of view. It was so great!

Anyway, that was basically our trip. All of your gifts are coming from Swakopmund, because I cleaned out all of the stores there. Just so ya know! Miss you all so much!! LOVE LOVE LOVE.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Wa la la po, and other Oshiwambo greetings.

I have returned to Windhoek from our two week travel seminar in northern Namibia, a little smelly, a little sunburned, a little tired, and a lot more knowledgeable about the way of life of residents of rural Namibia, a traditional Himba village, and the affects of tourism in the north through a trip to Etosha National Park! It was all AMAZING.

We arrived in Outapi, the center of the town where all of our homestay families lived, on the first Monday, after a long, 9-hour ride up there. Let's just say it consisted of a whole lot of singing old school pop music, with musical appearances by O-Town and the Backstreet Boys, in addition to some rapping of Blackstreet's "No Diggity," some snoring and drooling on pillows in uncomfortable seats, and a lot of Simba chips. Anyway, after the drive we were briefly introduced to our homestay families with awkward uses of Oshiwambo from our four hours of language class, and whisked away to our various families. Another boy and me got to ride with all of our luggage and our boxes of food in the back of a pick up truck, which was amazing, the wind in our hair, avoiding donkeys and goats on the road, and smelling the clean air without much pollution. This was just the beginning!

We arrived at our homestays with very little Oshiwambo skills, two boxes of food and toilet paper, sleeping bags, and mosquito nets. We had all been taking our Malaria medications for a few days, mine making me throw up quite a bit before hand, because there are a few more mosquitoes in the north and they are full of Malaria! Anyway, my host mother, Albertina, greeted me with a kiss on each cheek, a huge hug, and a long hand hold. The families in the north are extremely welcoming! We are not used to the kind of contact that these people are. My host mother walked me around, introducing me to all of her neighbors and friends among the host families, all the while holding my hand. I was so unused to this in the beginning, but by the end I was.

Anyway, my host mother drove me and Andy, the other CGE student who was my neighbor, to our homes in a pick up truck. I lugged my bag, sleeping bag, pillow, mosquito net, and two boxes of food along with my host mother and her friend, first over the extremely rusty and sharp fence and up the path to the house. When I first saw the fence, it was completely different than I had expected. During our preparation sessions, Sarah and Romanus (the woman who organized the host families in the north and our history professor) had told us that most of the homesteads would be made up of a few grass and wood huts. My host mother's house was made up of about 5 of these huts and two cement buildings. The main building housed her bedroom and a sitting room. The other cement building had my bedroom (yeah, I had my own bedroom!) and the bedroom of my 8 year old host brother, Solomo. I also had a sixteen year old host brother that lived in another hut in the compound. My host father, Tobias, is a soldier in the Namibian army and is only home for one weekend a month, and the week that I was there, he was working, unfortunately. The first night, we spent hours sitting in her hallway, drinking tea in the pitch dark because they did not have electricity, comparing the welfare systems in Namibia and the United States, talking about HIV/AIDs in Namibia, and learning about the education system from her, a primary school teacher. When she walked me to my room that night, I had to stop for a second to look at the sky. Now, probably the most amazing thing about my homestay (aside from my family of course), was the sky. Day time, night time, the sky is so much better in a place without electricity. During the day, the sky is incredibly blue, with the whitest clouds. During sunrise and sunset, the most beautiful colors of pink and orange flow across the sky, mingling with dark clouds over the wooden fence of my homestay. Then, the night time holds the most beautiful of skies. The stars literally blanket the black sky. There is no electricity or light pollution at night, so the starts are so clear in the sky. You first look, and it looks like there is a normal amount of stars. When you look more closely, there are layers upon layers upon blankets upon sheets of stars just littering every open space. It is ridiculous. You can see the Milky Way. I will never ever forget it, and I hope that someday I can come back.

My family went to bed every night right after dinner, so around 9ish most nights. One of the major issues that I had there though was the toilet situation. The toilet was about a seven minute walk through a cornfield and through cow and donkey territory. Needless to say, at night, my host mother did not want me to walk to the toilet alone, so after about 9pm each night I had to hold it! This was one of my major challenges during the week, haha. So basically from there, each day, the CGE staff would pick us up from our homestays on the main road. For me and Andy, the walk walk was only about 15-20 minutes, but for some of the other students, the walk to the road was about 40. So, the bus would come by and pick us up, and our days were filled with speakers and trips to various places in the North. We met the governor of the region one day, the King another day, and traveled to the border between Angola and Namibia to learn about the issues facing the fairly porous line separating the two countries. This was one of my favorite speakers/trips/days of the two weeks. The drive up to the border from our homestays was about an hour and a half, of a not so consistent pavement/rock/dirt/sand/water combination. It was extremely bumpy to say the least. Once we got there it was sooo hot and there were a TON of people. The border between Angola and Namibia is a very interesting one. Picture it as the border between the United States and Canada before you needed a passport. Basically, if you are Namibian, you can go to a little office near the border, state your purpose for traveling to Angola, state the amount of time that you will be in Angola, and they give you a piece of paper to travel over. One of our speakers talked about the problem of crime around this border, because of the ease of entering the other country. In addition, this problem brings a lot of illegal Angolans in to Namibia, a lot of illegal Namibians in to Angola, and a lot of issues with crime, a huge amount of street kids from Angola in Namibia, issues with drugs, and many other issues of poverty and crime. The area around the border was SO packed, with so many people. It was one of more interesting seminars of the week.

So, each afternoon we would return to our families around 2pm. My host mother was a teacher in a primary school, so she usually returned around 4pm. My youngest host brother went to school in the mornings, so he was usually home when I returned, and my 16 year old host brother was no longer in school, and was working in the fields by the time I got home. My family had a lot of animals, most of whom took care of themselves by roaming around and eating grass and drinking rain water, but they also had lots and lots of fields of corn, watermelon (which they called pumpkins), guava trees, green beans...lots of fields that my 16 year old host brother would work. When my 8 year old brother gets home, he works in the fields as well. My host mother never wanted me to work in the fields though. I washed a lot of dishes, helped clean the house, got rid of a lot of cobwebs, weeded the yards, and made a lot of tea! Overall, it was a good homestay and I learned a lot about my host mother's perspective on various things. In my family, my host mother was pretty much the only one who spoke any English. My host brothers were content to wave to me every time I saw them and say "I'm fine" when I asked how they were. But I loved every minute of it!

Following this one week rural homestay and the seminars that went along with it, we traveled to a traditional Himba village and camped right next to it. The first night, we got a tour around the village, met the chief, his wife, and got to learn about the traditional dress of the Himbas. They wear the skins of their animals, and cover themselves in occra (don't know how to spell it), a red powder mixed with butter that protects their skin from the sun. The Himbas do not wash themselves with water, but simply clean themselves with the occra. It was very cool to get to see the way they live, in their own villages. I think a few of us were questioning the legitimacy of the interaction, however. A group of about 20 people, majority white students from the United States, traveling to Africa to see the way that "Africans" live in their traditional homesteads? We were all a bit uneasy at the thought. Imagine a bunch of people from another country coming to your house to set up a tent next to it, to observe the way that you live? Uncomfortable to say the least. However, we learned later that the Himba people had contacted our professor to ask us to come to their village to learn more about their culture. This fact helped a little, but I know that I was still a bit uncomfortable, but it was a great learning experience.

After that camping experience, we traveled to Etosha National Park, one of the biggest tourist destinations of Namibia, especially in the north. There were got to see SO many different kinds of animals! The most prominent was the giraffe. There are hundreds of giraffes in the park. It was a very relaxing and fun end to a fun but packed trip to the north - hanging out with a bunch of giraffes, wildebeast, springbok, hyenas, and some jackals.

This coming week is spring break! All of the CGErs will be heading off to different places in southern Africa. I am actually going back to the coast of Namibia, to Swakopmund, for some affordable days on the beach and to volunteer at an afterschool program for some Namibia students called Mondesa Youth Opportunities. It should be an awesome break! I am going with two of my good friends on the program, so it will be greeeeeat.

Update when I get back next week! All my love to the United States.

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Shaking hands with social justice and a trip to the coast...

So, as per usual, I am terribly sorry that I haven't updated this blog in so long. I have been really busy and doing a lot of different things, so I haven't had a whole lot of time to do it! Most of the really cool things that have had the opportunity to do have been through my classes! I'm taking a history class, politics class, development class, and an independent study on Namibian incarcerated mothers. I'll give you some highlights of some of the really cool things that I've been doing in them!

Politics class - We had a really really awesome chance to head to the Parliament Building last week to see how the government and where the government is run and works. Our tour started in the Constitution Room, which is the room where the Namibian constitution was first written in the post-independent period! It was in this room that we got to meet the actual Speaker of Parliament! He talked to us for about an hour. It was really amazing. Because Namibian is such a recently independent country, we have gotten the chance to meet with some awesome speakers, especially people high up in the government. This man talked to us very briefly, but had some cute anecdotes about the United States. It is interesting that almost every person in the government that we've talked to spent a large amount of time in the United States during apartheid in Namibia, so they all have pretty extensive knowledge about where we're from and what it is like in the States, and they love to talk about it. Very few of them were actually in the country fighting for liberation, which is just interesting because so much in terms of status and popularity relates to the amount of liberation credentials a person has.

History - We have had two really phenomenal opportunities recently through this class. One of my favorites was a woman from an organization called Behind the Wall of Silence, an organization that is working to recover the untold stories of women and men who were tortured by SWAPO (the ruling party in Namibia right now, the liberation party of apartheid, etc.) while in exile in Angola, Zimbabwe, etc. Because SWAPO is the ruling party now and was the liberation party, it is very rare that people speak against them. However, during apartheid, the now ruling parties in Southern Africa (for example, both SWAPO in Namibia and the ever popular ANC in South Africa), sometimes used really awful measures to ensure loyalty from even their own party members. For example, the woman who came to speak to us was imprisoned and tortured for almost three years in Angola, by her own party, SWAPO, not only to ensure her loyalty but to seek out spies and other non-loyal people. She had horrible stories to tell about rape, murder, torture, withholding of food...and the list goes on. At the end of her talk I was so moved and dumbfounded by hearing this other perspective that I immediately went up to her and asked if her organization needed any volunteers! I have some free time when I'm not in class and I am extremely interested in the issues of memory that they are dealing with, as well as telling the untold stories. Hopefully it will work out!

The second AWESOME opportunity that we had in history class in these past few weeks was going to a conference on the Southern African Genome Sequencing Project, which is a group of professors from all over the world (mainly the United States, Australia, and South Africa), who are testing the DNA of different residents of Southern Africa to trace their DNA and their history. And you will never guess who one of the speakers at the conference was....DESMOND TUTU! It was literally Desmond Tutu in the flesh!! The professors are actually tracing some of his DNA, so he got to stand up and talk about it. Here are a couple of really touching things that he said during his speech:

"Can you imagine what our world would become if we accepted that we are all family?"

"When I kill the enemy, I am killing my brother, my sister."

"Wake up. We are members of one family."

"Thank you for being my relatives."

Amazing. Basically, his speech came around the topics of the fact that these professors are attempting to prove: that we are all African, we all have the same origins and history, and that we are all one people, one family. It was so beautiful. He has this wonderful laughter and way about him was a once in a lifetime experience. So, classes are going really well!

This past Sunday we returned from a four day trip to Swakopmund, Namibia, which is a town on the coast of Namibia. It was amazing because we were finally able to see the ocean, which we hadn't seen in months! The town is really beautiful, much cooler than Windhoek, and we got to visit some really cool organizations. For example, we got to visit a school, a township, some of the port and economic organizations that directly relate to the coastal issues, a fish factory...the list goes on! It was SO cool! I am actually going back for all of spring break I have decided, so that I can volunteer at this organization called Mondesa Youth Opportunities, which is an afterschool program for promising Namibian students, to help aid in their education because of the failing governmental school system. A few of us are going back to the coast to volunteer there, to get some more beach days in, to rest, and more! I am SO excited about it!

Anyway, that's pretty much what I've been doing! I hope all is going well in the states. I probably won't update again until late late March, because next Monday I am headed to the north with our group, for a 6 day rural homestay (challenges, here we come!), a trip to Etosha (SAFARI!), and some camping! Then we have spring break! I can't wait!!! I'll let you know how it goes when I get back!

Monday, February 15, 2010

End of the homestay.

So, my urban homestay in Windhoek has officially ended. This weekend we didn't end up doing much, but on Saturday night we did go to another Namibian Premier League game, which was a lot of fun. It was the African Stars versus the Oshakati City team, basically the number one team versus the number eleven team. It was so funny, because my host mother's team was to be number one if the Stars lost, so she was cheering for the Oshakati team SO loud. They ended up losing 3-1, but the fans were hilarious to watch!

One thing that I did notice at the game though was the informal work that little kids were doing. At the beginning of the game, you enter Sam Nujoma Stadium and there are all kinds of informal work going on, mostly women and men selling beer, soda, and meat. So, people inside have all kinds of drinks and food with them. However, there are these small groups of little kids that run around inside the stadium asking people for the ends of their food - the leftover bones to suck the meat off of and the dregs of the juice and soda from empty cans. Some kids even get their hands on beer cans and they sip what is left in the cans. In addition, there are tons of kids that carry around coolers full of beer and soda to fans in the stadium. It is really interesting to see these kids attempting to make what little money they can get by selling these things to patrons in the stadium. I felt so bad that all I wanted to do was give them all of the money that I have, so they could buy one of the sodas that they were selling instead of drinking my leftover sips.

I came back to the CGE house yesterday, and we've been hanging out together again! My birthday is this week (2-1...CRAZY). Classes and stuff this week. Next week we're headed to the Coast, Swakopmund, which is going to be so much fun! More later! Miss everyone at home!

Friday, February 12, 2010

Oh, and my program has a general blog with pics and everything. Check it out!

Love you all!

Skipping to the urban homestay...

So, don't hate me, but I'm going to skip the beginning of the Windhoek trip to what I am doing now, and I will start being more faithful to this blog. So basically I am in the middle of my urban homestay in Windhoek North right now, which is a wealthier part of the city. The first weekend that we were in it, last weekend, was really fun. My host family consists of a mother and father, both in their 50s, their 29 year old son, and a 29 year old man named Hosam who is from Egypt. They also have some other residents in the house behind their house, but I don't see them much.

On Friday, we went to a Namibian Premier League soccer game. GO BLACK AFRICA! My host father is a huge fan of Black Africa, a Katatura team, and my host mother is a fan of the Orlando Pirates, another Katatura team. It was really entertaining to go to a game! There were drunken people all around me, everyone decked out in black and red, Black Africa was awesome. The next day, they drove me around two different parts of town, Ludwigsdorf which is where all of the wealthy German people live, and then Katatura, the old all black township, and then the informal settlements within, where people have built their own shacks to live. The disparity in wealth here in Namibia is so drastic, especially because the population of the whole country is only about 2 million, so there are very few people and extreme differences in wealth. Later that day I got pretty sick and went to bed at seven, so not much else happened. The next day I went with my host mom to Chinatown in Windhoek. There is an interestingly large population of Chinese people in Namibia. My host mother loves Chinatown but makes odd comments about the actual Chinese people in Namibia, who are taking over by having lots of children. She predicts that the population will soon overrun that of whites. We also went to one of the German and Afrikaaner malls, Maerua Mall, which was huge, clean, and filled with white people. It was a very interesting comparison to the mall that we usually go to, which is Wernhill Park, which is less nice and mostly used by the black people in Windhoek. The rest of the day was spent doing homework and resting, but I was finally able to eat some food that night.

I don't want to talk about the whole week of the homestay, but a typical homestay weekday looks as follows:

Wake up around 8am and peek my head outside of my room to see if anyone is in the bathroom.
Take a bath. For both of the homestays that I've had so far, they do not have showers, but only baths.
Finish up some of my reading for my classes that day.
My mother drives me to the CGE house or to class, because she thinks that taxis are too dangerous in terms of people being robbed and their scary driving.
I either have class or work on my independent study.
Hang out with other CGEers until about 530.
Host mother picks me up.
Dinner with the host family.
Watch 7 de laan, the best soapie in Namibia/South Africa. Ask me about it.
Watch the news in Afrikaans, which I have to mute every few seconds to ask what's going on.
Watch the Namibian news.
Do my homework/read, etc.
Sleep super early, like 10 o'clock or 11 o'clock.
End up staying up even later because it is fiery hot in my room and I sweat to death, and stay up attempting to murder every mosquito in my room.
Finally fall asleep to the buzzing of mosquitoes in both ears.
Wake up and do it again!

So that's basically what it looks like! I'll give you all an update about what I do this weekend with my homestay family! The homestay ends on Sunday! We are having an anti-Valentine's Day celebration with pizza, beer, and the new Valentine's Day movie. Excellence.

Miss everyone at home!

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Some discomfort in Pretoria...

After our amazing Soweto homestay, we drove to Pretoria, the capitol of South Africa. We were staying in a nice hotel and got to hang out and get to know each other over some Windhoek Lagers and a delicious braai. The most significant visit that we did over these few days was to the Voortrekker monument, a monument dedicated to the Afrikaaners who traveled from the Cape north and east to escape from “English oppression” when they abolished slavery in the early nineteenth century. The monument, while beautiful, was extremely uncomfortable for me to visit. As Afrikaaners were the architects and creators of apartheid, and the monument was erected for them to honor their travels north so that they could legally own their slaves. We had some interesting discussions amongst the group about this discomfort, but rested on the idea that it was good to get another perspective on the history.

Aside from this trip, we were busy catching up with some quicker e-mail access and air conditioning. We also made a quick stop at the U.S. Embassy in Pretoria and learned some interesting information about the United States Foreign Service, the United States presence in South Africa, and Chinese presence in South Africa as well. After that, we were all pretty tired, so we hung out at the hotel and packed because we had to leave the hotel really early to get to the airport the next day! Off to Windhoek!!

Soweto homestay.

They dropped us off two by two at our Soweto homestays, not telling us who was going to be dropped off until they pulled up in front of our homes. Because it was our first homestay, they had us go with another CGE person, which definitely put me at ease. Lauren and I were dropped off at a home in the nicer part of Soweto. Our host mother, Sybil has one son named Mpumi, and they were both amazing people! The moment we got there, Mpumi led us inside and immediately began to talk to us about our schools, what we were studying, and all the little details of our life. We reciprocated, and then Sybil came in. She is an extremely interesting woman! She is just about to start school for a Masters degree in HIV/AIDs, so she taught us a lot about its status in South Africa, and its legacy in terms of governmental knowledge or support. The last president, Thabo Mbeki, said that there was no connection between HIV and AIDs. The current president, Jacob Zuma, said that he had sex with an HIV positive woman, and "washed it off." She talked to us about the impact that these words from South Africa's leaders had on the population. There are also some interesting issues of stigma in the clinics in Soweto. People don't want to be caught being tested for fear of being stigmatized and avoided.

We spent a lot of time talking about the subject, and then had an awesome dinner. We ended up staying up really late that night to watch Animal Planet with Mpumi! The next day we got to sleep in, finally, and then we drove around Soweto meeting Sybil's family members and looking for a part for her combi. Nothing else eventful happened that day, but later in the night we watched a movie called Yesterday, about a girl in rural South Africa who gets AIDs from her husband working in Johannesburg.

The next day we got the opportunity to attend a South Africa funeral. I had this idea that the funeral would be vastly different from an American one, but it turned out to be really similar, except for the large amount of singing! We went to the church and listened to a Zulu service for about an hour. Then they lead the coffin out of the church to the cemetery, all the while singing these beautifully sad and celebratory songs, which I couldn't understand, but understood, if you know what I mean. Then, all of the cars (which was a LOT because the deceased was a prominent combi owner), proceeded to the family's house to eat and eat and eaaaat. It was really interesting, but surprisingly similar. We have all these ideas about African traditions are supposed to look at, with sacrifices and animals. The culture, especially in the city, is quite similar though.

Later in the day we were exhausted, so we took naps and then watched a bootleg version of 2012. However, the best part of the day followed, when we went to a braai, which is a barbeque in Southern Africa. We went over to the house of Sybil's friend, who happened to be the host mother of two other CGE students. We had some phenomenal food, but then had a great talk with Moketze, one of our guides for the trip. One of the most interesting things that he told us about was the impact that American students want to have when they get to "Africa." Students come in with lots of ideas about women's rights and the oppressive society that is "Africa," and fail to learn about the culture because they are too busy condemning. For example, women take the dishes of the men from the table when they are done eating. He said that a lot of students refuse to do this, or they talk about how wrong it is that this is part of a woman's role in South Africa. I have these same questions, because on one hand I am really interested in learning about the culture and traditions, but on the other there are some questions about women's roles and men's roles.

That was basically the end of my homestay! We left the next morning, sadly, wishing there was more time in the weekend. I'm hoping to get better at blogging, sooooo this was my second start! Hope it was interesting. I miss everyone in the States!!!!

Love love love,

Monday, February 1, 2010

Johannesburg, the beginning.

Okay, so when I started this whole blog thing I knew I wasn't going to be super good at it. Seeing as how it is now two weeks in to my trip and all my friends who have blogs from abroad seem to be updating at least once a week I guess I should probably do the same. So here it goooooes...

We all arrived at the Dulles, Washington D.C. airport on Saturday evening to take the group flight to Johannesburg. Everyone seemed pretty tired from their connecting flights or long drives, but we all chatted for the couple hours until our plane left. It was SO weird to think that we were finally leaving for Africa, something that we had been preparing for for so long. At this point I was still a bit sad from leaving my home loves, but excited for the semester! We got on the long plane ride (17.5 hours to be exact) to get to Johannesburg. OF COURSE, I was sitting in the middle of 4 seats, next to a really old man who I felt so bad nudging when I had to go to the bathroom, and this man who kept attempting to watch movies but his screen wasn't working, and he kept cursing and swearing at the flight attendants. Awkward to say the least. I think I watched about six movies over the course of the trip, because I hate planes so it's hard for me to sleep for fear of crashing or death. Finally, after a connection in Dakar, Senegal, we arrived in Johannesburg for our first travel seminar!

We arrived at the airport in Johannesburg around 5:00pm on Sunday the 17th of January. We were all exhausted, confused about the time, but really excited to finally be in another country. The minute we stepped of the plane, we were all sweating and extremely warm because we were mostly still in our northern United States attire, a.k.a. winter clothing! It was a great bonding experience to say the least. We were picked up from the airport by Urbanus, our politics professor, and Moketze (unsure how to spell his name), our homestay coordinator for South Africa, and a native of Soweto, who drove us around and taught us about the region. We got in to two combis, which are basically large vans. We drove for about a half hour to St. Peter's Place, the guesthouse which would be our residence for our Johannesburg travel seminar. We had dinner immediately, and met Pastor Sharon, the woman who ran the old seminary. We learned a little bit about the place. Archbishop Desmond Tutu did some of his early theological work there, and it was the place where Hugh Masekela first picked up his trumpet! Pretty cool. We then all got our computers and attempted to find a signal for some wireless internet to inform our loved ones at home that we were alive and safe. With all seventeen of us trying to get on at the same time, needless to say it was pretty slow going. Eventually, we just ended up hanging out in the beautiful South African warm night, and calling it a night.

The next day we jumped right in to getting to know the area and doing some things. We woke up early, ate your basic breakfast, and did some brief introductions and a talk on safety and culture. Then, we met a man named Molefi Mataboge, who would become the love of our lives and, as a native of Johannesburg, became another tour guide and great resource. He gave us a brief history of apartheid in South Africa. Then, we traveled to Soweto in Johannesburg. During apartheid, Soweto was an all black township. Now, you can still really see some of the poverty and struggle that its residents are going through. It is full of matchbox homes, animals running loose, little kids everywhere, fast and dangerous drivers, and much more. We drove through Soweto, and eventually arrived at the Hector Peterson Museum. Hector Peterson was a thirteen year old boy who was murdered by white police officers during the Soweto student uprising in 1976. Basically, during 1976 the apartheid government mandated that Afrikaans, the language of the white oppressors, would be the language in which students were taught, even the young black South African students who didn't know Afrikaans. The students at various schools in Soweto decided that they would do a peaceful march and protest through the streets of Soweto, and end at the Orlando Stadium to discuss the new legislation and have debates and forums where people could talk. However, after the began their march, police forces blocked the street and wouldn't allow them to continue. Something happened, and the police officers began shooting the protesters, all of which were children. Many died, including Hector Peterson, the thirteen year old boy who the museum is named after. We got to the museum, which chronicled the struggle of apartheid in the schools, specifically in Soweto, and also had large scale images of the famous photograph of Hector Petereson, being carried through the violent streets by a friend, while his sister ran along side of him in horror. You should check out the photo, because it became an extremely popular image of the horrors of apartheid to the international community, and as a rallying point within South Africa. Then, we were so lucky that we got to meet Hector Peterson's sister, the girl in the image, and she told us what she remembered of that day. She is normally a tour guide at the museum, but was on leave, but we were lucky enough to talk to her. I cannot imagine the strength that it must take for her to walk in to that museum everyday and see the image of her dead brother, and remember that day. That is one of the most striking things that I think I encountered in South Africa - people's willingness to talk about an extremely difficult past. People talk about the deaths of family members, the beatings, the rapes, and arrests, the imprisonment...I don't know how they do it. South Africans are so strong.

After that, we had a brief lunch at the Maponya Mall (basically, the black mall in Johannesburg), where, little did we know, we would spending much of our time over the next few days, ha. Then we left, and Molefi gave us a personal tour of Soweto. We stopped at this beautiful church called Regina Mundi, where black groups used to hold meetings during apartheid. There is a very interesting altar there, where, when attempting to break up a meeting, a white police officer slammed his gun down so hard on the altar that the corner shattered. They still have that altar in the front of the church today. That night, we got back to St. Peter's Place and watched Sarafina, a movie about the Soweto student uprising, and apartheid in the schools.

The next day, we visited a semi-private school called St. Martin's, in Soweto. It is basically a K-12 school. I think collectively it was one of our favorite stops on the whole Johannesburg trip. Our group got broken up so that there were about four of us to each three or four student tour guides. They took us around from classroom to classroom and we introduced ourselves to the classes, and they got to ask us any questions that they wanted. They asked questions from "when was the White House built" (which embarrassingly, no one in my group knew!), to "do you see any potential in our school?" I got to talk closely with one of our tour guides, who was graduating this year. We talked about a range of things, but two things stuck out to me. One was our discussion about the World Cup, which is coming to South Africa during June and July of 2010. I asked him if he was excited about it and he said that he wasn't really. This wasn't an answer that I expected, so I asked more. He said that he wasn't really excited about it because for one thing, he won't be able to afford to go to any of the games, and neither will most South Africans. Another thing was that during the World Cup, a bunch of the schools in the areas where games are happening get closed down for the duration. Therefore, his school was going to get shut down for about six weeks during his finals period and during the final days of his career there. I hadn't known that these things were happening, and I had never thought about the former much. The second thing that we got to talking about were school uniforms. I asked him if he was excited about graduating and moving on the his next school, and he said yes, but that he was going to miss the school uniforms. Again, this was not something that I expected, but he explained to me why he liked school uniforms. He said that in Soweto, people come from really different backgrounds and social classes. Some students don't have shoes, others don't have changes of clothing, while others wear Nikes and Adidas all day. School uniforms act as an equalizer for students of different wealths. I had never really thought of uniforms in that respect, but seen them as a hindrance. Needless to say, I learned a lot from those kids!

We then left the school, much to our disappointment. We had lunch and then left to go to downtown Johannesburg, to the Khulumani Support Group. This group is a collection of about four people who are attempting to deal with the unfinished business of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission. The TRC was a series of hearings during the post-apartheid period, where perpetrators could apply for amnesty for the atrocities committed, and victims and victims families were given an opportunity to voice their stories to the public. However, the TRC did not really get to all of the victims, and the Khulumani group was hoping to reach those whose voices had not been heard. They search out people who haven't gotten to tell their stories and listen to them. They also allow them to register with the group so that if they ever need support, they can call the group for help. I think this group brings up some interesting questions and issues surrounding the TRC, as well as historical memory (D. Gordon!). We then traveled back to our house to listen to an economist talk about the economy in South Africa in the post-apartheid period. I was actually falling asleep a little at this point and couldn't much concentrate on the speaker, which was unfortunate because he seemed interesting! That night, we had dinner at Robbie's Place, a DELICIOUS bed and breakfast in Soweto. It was sooo good. It was my first experience with pop, a white porridge type thing that Southern African people use to wipe up the remnants of meat and sauce at the end of a meal. We had chakkalaka, a really good sweet potato and carrot and bean thing, great meat of all kinds, awesome much food. We were so full at the end. I also got to have Windhoek Lager for the first time, which is the beer that is made in Windhoek, Namibia, where we are living for a majority of the time. It's pretty good too! That night we left and went back to the guest house and hung out for the night there.

The next day, we went to the Apartheid Museum. This was a really interesting museum chronicling the experience of apartheid in South Africa. Unfortunately we didn't get much time there, but the time we did get was fascinating and sad. When you enter the museum, you get a card saying that you are either white or non-white. You then enter whichever door corresponds to that card. I had the non-white card, so that was the path that I followed in the beginning. You enter and there are images of the passbooks that blacks were required to carry in order to be in designated white areas. Then, you go through the museum and learn about the history of apartheid, the laws that were enforced, the big events in its history, the major figures, etc. There was also a wonderful exhibition on Nelson Mandela going on while we were there, with his original journals, some letters, clothing, etc.

Later that afternoon we met with a woman from the ANC who told us about what the ANC is doing now, and what it was like to be a woman in the organization. Later that night, we went our to the Market Theater in Johannesburg, where we got to see HUGH MASEKELA. IN REALY LIFE. He was in the show we saw!!! It was INSANITY. Hugh Masekela is a really famous trumpet player from South Africa, who was exiled during apartheid and now is back, performing. The show that he was in was about migration, and the theme of the train in black men and women's lives during apartheid. For example, because blacks and whites and coloureds and Indians were forced to live in separate areas and many blacks worked in white areas, they were forced to carry passbooks which proved that they were allowed to be in the white areas. However, only the person who was working was allowed a pass, so they often had to leave their families behind, take the train in the white area, and not see their families for some time. These trains were horrible images for blacks, both leaving their families, and those who were left behind. Although much of the play was in Zulu, the music was beautiful and the play interesting.

The next day we had a few speakers in the morning, and then in the afternoon were rained in, so went back to the mall. That night, we watched Amandla!, a movie about music in the resistance movement.

The next day, we heard a few more speakers and then went to the Bruma Market, an awesome outdoor market with lots of crafts and little stands. We were given money for lunch, and time to walk around and spend lots o money. In these stands, the sellers are extremely aggressive and you have to bargain with them constantly to get them down to a good price. For those of you who know me, imagine me trying to haggle someone in to lowering their prices? I am so bad at it, ha. By the end, I resorted to pretending to leave over and over until they lowered the price to one that I want. It actually worked pretty well. I ended up buying this beautiful, small canvas of a woman drumming. I absolutely loved the large, colorful bell pants that the drummer was wearing, as well as the image of the drum. I have actually been good this trip at not buying lots of things for myself! Basically I have resorted to buying things for my wall - that canvas, and a Mandela poster from the Apartheid Museum. I have even bought a few other people gifts already! You would all be proud.

After the market, we had a tour of downtown Johannesburg with Molefi. We got to see some of the interesting buildings, for example, the building where people had to register their color in order to work, find out where they needed to live, and to collect their passbooks. We got to see a museum of the mines where black men used to come in and work, and some other sites as well.

That pretty much wrapped up our tenure at St. Peter's Place in Johannesburg. Next thing up was our homestays!

(PS If you want to look at pictures go to Facebook. Uploading them here takes too long with my internet service!)

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

bloggity blog

Hey all!

Just wanted to test this out and see how it went. I'm leaving for Namibia this Saturday, which is mildly terrifying but REALLY exciting at the same time!

My Skype name is mtaggarthampton for those who don't know. Contact me!

Muuuuch love.